CF04 Lessons From the Waves


I. Beach breaks require spontaneity. Important decisions on impulse.


Some folks demand that we exist in a slow dance with destiny. Others go the other extreme, that we alone choose our every outcome. Grey. Staying true to my uncle’s advice:


II. Each session is a paddle, rather than a surf.

By paddling out into the waves, we place ourselves within the destiny of catching one. We paddle more. The statistics increase that we might pop up into the shoulder flawlessly. Each day we do this, we get stronger and attain more wave awareness, thus increasing the ability to ride the wave.


Do surfers exist? or ought they rather more aptly be called surf chasers?



We wash away

We wash on shore again


IV. Be selective which wave you ride. Some will slap you. hard.


V. Timing is everything.


VI. Like the currents and the tides, we are highly transitory. We are completely temporary beings, yet the soul or the spirit of a sea {a person} is an intangible slab of granite.


VII. We are capable of currents of thought; a current of thought being an extension of a glimpse that lasts through and connects several glimpses and may extend through days, months or years. This allows one to pattern beautifully, without becoming too distracting and unwelcomingly chaotic.


VIII. Chaos can be divided into that which is welcome and that which is not. It is a fine line and changes with the tide.



A wave is tension.

A critical apex of forces.

Fluid + solid.

In + out.

Air + water.


X. The waves are always better just down the way. Free beer tomorrow. Is greener grass better?


XI. Drift! The waves aren’t going anywhere.


XII. “Paddle with all your heart.” _Tucker Garrison


XIII. The waves will destroy your pride.


XIV. Point the thing where you think it should go and ride.


XV. Beach bums survey the high tide mark for treasure to supply primal gatherer instinct.


XVI. Like snowflakes, no two waves are alike.